Tuscany

A History — and Wines — for the Ages

Few lands on earth are blessed with as rich a history as the Tuscany region of Italy. Here, some of the greatest artists, writers and architects of all time launched a new movement we now call the Renaissance, and the church wielded absolute power. Woven throughoutthis medieval tapestry of art, religion, history and culture are the signature wines of the region.

Covering nearly 9,000 square miles, Tuscany is the fifth-largest wine region in Italy and the third-largest producer in terms of volume. Western Tuscany edges into the Tyrrhenian Sea; inland, it borders the regions of Emilia-Romagna, the Marches and Umbria. With hills and mountains covering close to 70% of the terrain and with close proximity to four seas, Tuscany is a patchwork of microclimates. As a result, the flavor, texture and character of a wine can vary from one estate to another.

A Primer on the Wines of Tuscany

A Quick Italian Label Guide

Though these designations are helpful in selecting an Italian wine, labels may still be confusing. Some wines are named after the grape variety, others for the appellation and yet others combine the two!

DOC: The equivalent of France’s AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) laws governing wine production and labeling, Italy’s DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) laws were passed in 1963 to help improve the quality of Italian wine. A DOC (quality) rating corresponds to a specific region, rather than estate or particular wine.

DOCG: In 1980, a higher-quality designation was implemented. The addition of “G” (Garantita, or guaranteed) to a DOC rank is intended to ensure an extra-premium wine.

IGT: The abbreviation for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, an IGT rating is comparable to France’s Vins de Pays rank—higher than a table wine, but supposedly not quite up to DOC standards. Ironically, some of Italy’s finest wines, the Super Tuscans, are IGT wines because they flout DOC regulations.

Vino da Tavola: The bulk of Italy’s output falls into this “table wine” category—including many fine wines that, like many IGT wines, are declassified for using “illegal” grapes or technologies.

Classico: Some Italian wines, such as Soave, Valpolicella and Chianti, have a Classico rating to denote a higher quality.

Riserva: Only Chiantis that meet the most stringent barrel aging requirements may earn a Riserva label.

Superiore: The best Soaves and Valpolicellas may qualify for this highest designation. Chianti Superiore (established in 1996) designates high quality Chianti from a variety of sub-zones other than Chianti Classico.

The ABCs of Tuscan Reds

Tuscany is primarily a red wine region, with reds accounting for about 60% of production. The great red-wine grape of Tuscany is Sangiovese — the basis of the three most renowned wines of the region: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Other varieties that are making inroads into the region include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Syrah. Here’s a look at Tuscany’s most important reds.

Brunello di Montalcino. This exquisite red wine didn’t even exist until 1870, when a pioneering vintner by the name of Ferruccio Biondi-Santi broke the prevailing rules of the time to create a wine based entirely on Brunello (literally, “little dark one”), a clone of Sangiovese. Using his techniques, winemakers today create an earthy, complex wine capable of long aging, characterized by aromas and flavors of dark fruits, chocolate, violet and leather. Its younger version is Rosso di Montalcino. Status: DOCG

Carmignano. Although many Tuscan winemakers have just begun experimenting with international varieties, Carmignano has blended Cabernet Sauvignon with Sangiovese since the 18th century. The result is a full-bodied wine with finesse and structure, with a velvety texture and violet tones in the nose. Status: DOCG

Chianti. Chianti is the quintessential Italian wine. Always a blended wine, Chianti varies widely in its recipe and character — but it is always based on Sangiovese. Vinified since 700 A.D., Chianti began recouping its reputation during the 1970s, when white-wine grapes were no longer permitted in the blend. Now, it is again the pride of Italy. Chianti Classico is made in the Chianti district, and Chianti Classico Riserva signifies a more stringent level of quality. Status: DOCG

Morellino di Scansano. Up-and-coming in Tuscany is this Sangiovese-based wine, which is distinguishing itself from the prestigious Super Tuscans. Other grapes in the blend include Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo, Alicante (Grenache), Mavasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and/or Merlot. Status: DOC

Super Tuscans. In the 1970s and 1980s, some Italian vintners became frustrated with the restrictive rules of DOC regulations, and began experimenting with “illegal” varieties and winemaking techniques. Cabernet Sauvignon, once a favorite of Cosimo de’ Medici, reemerged as a major grape in the region, and French oak barrels were used for aging. What they created were dense, powerful wines that did not qualify for DOC or DOCG status — but that nevertheless were among the most thrilling (and expensive) Italian wines on the market. Status: Vino da Tavola

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Achieving its name in the 18th century, when it was the wine of the aristocracy and the clergy, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano derives from a clone of Sangiovese called Prugnolo — literally, “little prune.” Concentrated and spicy, with sharp acidity, it is now regaining its high-quality reputation. A Rosso di Montepulciano is also vinified. It is a younger wine of variable quality, aged for a shorter period of time. Status: DOCG

1+1 = 2 Great Tuscan Whites

Traditionally, the white wines of Tuscany have not been able to stand alongside their red counterparts — with the two notable exceptions below. Most were based on the native varieties Trebbiano and Malvasia, unremarkable varieties best known as part of the former Chianti blend. Today, however, international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio are breathing new life into the white wines of the region. Still, these two wines remain the flagship whites of the region.

Vernaccia. Tuscany’s first DOC wine is also its first DOCG white. One of the best-known Italian wines in the world, it cantrace its heritage to Etruscan days. Today, it is usually aged in stainless-steel tanks to preserve its freshness. Crisp, dry, refreshing and well-structure, it is known for its almond and floral aromas and citrus flavors. Status: DOCG

Vin Santo. Named for its historic role in the Mass, Tuscany’s sweet wine is pressed from partly dried grapes, then fermented for three to five years in small oak barrels. Not as sweet as Sauternes, Vin Santo wines offer a delicate, creamy texture, with a honeyed flavor — and often a flamboyant yellow or orange color. Status: DOC (depending on the zone)