France

There’s a French expression: “Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose” — meaning, “The more things change, the more they stay the same.” To us, that expresses well everything that is best and worst about Bordeaux.

Let’s start with what is best. First, Burgundy lovers notwithstanding, Bordeaux is the greatest wine-producing region in the world. No matter what changes happen in the wine world, no other winegrowing region in the world produces such quantities of consistently high-quality wine, year after year. It’s not enough that Bordeaux consists of a piece of geography that has all the “right stuff”
in terms of soil and climate. To maintain its exalted position in the world of wine, Bordeaux certainly keeps up with the times when it comes to the latest technology. After all, having set so high a standard,
Bordelaise winemakers cannot afford to let their reputation and prestige suffer by letting their quality slip.

Which brings me to what is worst about Bordeaux — if the word “worst” can be used in connection with such a winemaking heaven. It is Bordeaux’ very history and prestige that may have led the region into its first serious financial crisis in two decades. Sometimes, those at the top of a pyramid are reluctant to change with the times, for fear of falling off or sliding down. By that, I mean things like France permitting changes in labeling laws or the varieties legally allowed in Bordeaux wines. For Bordeaux, both wine exports and domestic consumption have decreased over the past couple of years in the face of international competition. More than 10% of its vineyards are said to be experiencing cash-flow difficulties — as well as surplus inventory. It is a problem throughout France, but most critical in Bordeaux, where 25% of the country’s wine is produced.

Happily, some corrections are being made, such as marketing initiatives launched by the CIVB, Bordeaux’ wine industry cooperative.

Bordeaux: The Manufacturers

As in all major wine regions of the world, the appellations of Bordeaux are different from each other in the style of wine they produce. To understand the difference, it is important first to learn the region’s basic geography. Like Paris, Bordeaux has a Right Bank and a Left Bank … only Bordeaux is bisected not by the Seine, but rather by the Dordogne to the north and the Garonne to the south — with Entre-Deux-Mers sitting proudly in the middle.

The Left Bank — South of the Garonne River

The Médoc. The heart of red Bordeaux country and a wonderland for Cabernet Sauvignon, the Médoc stretches for 60 miles along the river, at only about 12 miles wide. It also fronts the Gironde River, which flows into the Atlantic. Within this enclave lie some of Bordeaux’ most famous red-wine appellations, including Margaux, Pauillac, St.-Julien and St.-Estéphe.

• Graves. Here is the only Bordeaux appellation famous for both red and white wines, although reds dominate at 75% of production.
• Pessac-Leognan, Barsac & Sauternes. All once a part of Graves, these famous appellations justly earned their separate distinction — Pessac-Leognan for some of the best red wines in Bordeaux, and Barsac and Sauternes for their sweet wines.

Between the Rivers. Located not between two seas, as its name suggests, but rather between two rivers, Entre-Deux Mers was once renowned for its production of dry white wines, although today the volume of red wines is triple that of white. Neighboring Sainte-Foy-Bordeaux also is revered for its affordable reds.

The Right Bank — North of the Dordogne

The historic region of Libournais, which marked the end of the Hundred Years War in 1453, was first cultivated by the ancient Romans. Today, it yields Merlot, principally, from the beautiful mosaic of vineyards
that dot its picturesque hills. Within its boundaries lie some of today’s most exciting Bordelaise appellations, such as:

• Pomérol. Similar to the Médoc in terroir, this great region produces red wines almost exclusively, particularly Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
• St.-Emilion. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, historic St.-Emilion was one of Bordeaux’ unsung heroes — until the emerging trend of “garage wines” put it in the driver’s seat of today’s most exciting wine regions.
• Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac. Known also for molasses, this region west of St.-Emilion produces wine that was among the most popular in France until the 19th century. Merlot is the preferred grape in Fronsac today.
• The 5 Côtes of Bordeaux. No sticker shock here! The Côtes de Bordeaux — the Blaye, the Bourg, the Castillon, Premières Côtes de Bordeaux and Côtes de Francs — are spread throughout the Right Bank and are renowned especially for their red wines. They’re also known for providing exceptional value in a world of ever-escalating prices for quality Bordeaux wine.