South America

Argentina: The Sleeping Giant Awakens

In South America, only Brazil is larger than Argentina, which stretches from the rain forests of the Tropic of Capricorn to the icebergs of Cape Horn, and from the Atlantic Ocean in the east to the Andes mountains in the west.

Understanding the Wine Regions of Argentina

To understand this vast diversity of microclimates, it’s important to understand the three basic sections of Argentina’s wine country: the Andean Northwest, Cuyo, and the South.

The Andean Northwest.

Because it is closest to Peru — the seat of Spanish colonial power — this northernmost section of Argentina is host to Argentina’s oldest wine-producing region, La Rioja. It is also this section’s most important appellation, specializing in white wines — particularly those made from the Torrontés grape. Barbera, Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon account for the remainder of plantings. Of the three remaining wine regions in the Andean Northwest — Salta, Jujuy and Catamarca — Salta is by far the most important. Torrontés, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon are the best performers here.

Cuyo.

Welcome to the heart of Argentinean wine country! Within Cuyo lies Mendoza, in the Andean foothills west of Buenos Aires. To say that Mendoza is Argentina’s biggest and most important wine region would be like saying that Bigfoot is larger than a spider monkey. Comprising 70% of the country’s total vineyard land, it is larger than Bordeaux and has more land under vine than Australia and New Zealand combined. Many different varieties are cultivated within its diverse microclimates. Among these are the legacy of 19th-century European immigrants, such as Malbec, Bonarda, Nebbiolo and Tempranillo — as well as more recent plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Cuyo is also home to San Juan, which is also important in terms of volume, though its harvest produces lesser-quality wines.

The South.

In the Patagonia region closest to the South Pole, more apples, stone fruits and table grapes are grown than wine grapes. Yet, wine experts perceive it as a star in the making — particularly Río Negro, which is expected to produce spectacular white wines from Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and perhaps Viognier.

Argentina’s Great Grapes

Argentina is red-wine country. Not only do red wines account for 60% of total production, but red wines are generally superior in quality to the whites.

Red-wine grapes. Argentina’s signature grape is Malbec, a Bordeaux native now practically unknown in France, except in Cahors. In Mendoza, the variety achieves excellence. Cabernet Sauvignon is also planted in Argentina, primarily for export. Another noble red variety, Syrah, is also gaining in popularity. Other red winegrapes include Cereza and Criolla — a legacy of the colonial era — and several Italian and Spanish varieties.

White-wine grapes. The signature white-wine grape of Argentina is its Torrontés, a flowery and aromatic wine found almost nowhere else in the world. With its new focus on international varieties, Argentina is also producing many good-value Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs.

Chile: The Red-Hot Juggernaut

Though part of the South American continent, Chile is virtually an island, surrounded as it is by the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Andes mountains to the east, the Atacama Desert to the north, and Antarctic waters to the south. Roughly 2,700 miles long, its width of no more than 96 miles at its narrowest has earned it the nickname the “Thin Country.”

Within the ridges created by the Andes — the world’s longest mountain chain — lie sheltered valleys that create a winemaker’s paradise. And because the Southern Hemisphere’s seasons are the opposite of their northern counterparts, Chilean winemakers have the advantage of getting a jump on each year’s vintage!

Chile’s Hottest Wine Regions

Like Argentina, Chile’s wine regions may be divided into three general areas.

Aconcagua Valley Region.

A stunningly beautiful, warm-weather region in northern Chile, the Aconcagua Valley winds along the Aconcagua River north of Santiago. Some 85% of the harvest is redwine grapes, especially Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Coming on strong is Chile’s Casablanca Valley, the region closest to the Pacific coast. Here you’ll find the principal white-wine region of this red-wine nation, with white-wine grapes accounting for nearly half of the harvest.

Other regions of note here include the San Antonio Valley, south of the Casablanca Valley, whose cool weather is conducive to Pinot Noir, and the Limari Valley, a newly discovered cool-weather region near the Pacific coast.

Central Valley Region.

The prestige wine region of Chile is the Central Valley region, where most of the country’s winegrapes are grown. Framed by the backdrop of the Andes, this picture-postcard region is located just across the Andes from the Argentinean behemoth, Mendoza.

Located around — and even in — the capital city of Santiago, the Central Valley’s Maipo Valley appellation has historically been regarded as Chile’s premier wine region, primarily for its exceptional success with Cabernet Sauvignon.

The largest appellation within the Central Valley is the Rapel Valley. Red wines account for nearly 90% of plantings here, with Cabernet Sauvignon the leading variety. Within the Rapel Valley are the Cachapoal Valley , where fine-quality Merlot is widely produced, and the Colchagua Valley, where heat-loving varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carmenère thrive.

For white wines, look to the Curicó Valley, south of Colchagua. Though red wine still dominates the region, fine Sauvignon Blancs in particular are produced here.

The southernmost region of the Central Valley is the Maule Valley. The quality innovations that have swept Chile have largely bypassed this largest of the Central Valley appellations, where traditional winemaking is preferred and Pais is still the most-planted grape. There is tremendous potential, however, here in this region that mirrors the terroir of Spain’s prestigious Priorat region.

Southern Valley Region.

Cool, wet weather defines the three regions south of the Central Valley: the Itata Valley, the Bío-Bío Valley and the Malleco Valley. Though historically a source for jug wine made from Pais, there is great hope here for cool-weather varieties.

Chile and Grapes

Among the more than 20 varieties cultivated in the Chile, red-wine grapes account for about three-quarters of plantings.

Red-wine grapes. The once-ubiquitous, low-quality Pais is finally being supplanted by Chile’s crown jewel, Cabernet Sauvignon. As the country’s most important grape, this Bordelaise variety is producing more than half of Chilean fine wines.

The signature red wine grape of Chile, however, is Carmenère, also a native of Bordeaux but now virtually extinct in that region. Early Chilean plantings were often mixed in with Merlot, which it resembles; however, strong efforts have been made in recent years to separate the two varieties. Syrah, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Barbera, Sangiovese and Mourvèdre are other notable Chilean red-grape plantings.

White-wine grapes. Thanks to its recent Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc releases, Chile is earning a respectable white-wine reputation, with Chardonnay slightly dominating. Good values in Chilean Sauvignon Blanc may be found, although, as with Merlot and Carmenère, this variety has historically been intermixed with Sauvignonasse, also known as Sauvignon Vert — an inferior variety. Again, efforts are being made to separate the two varieties.

Other white wine grapes in Chile, totaling only about ten percent of white-wine plantings, include Muscat of Alexandria, Sémillon, Riesling, Viognier, and Gewürztraminer.

A Phylloxera-Free Zone

Since the late 19th century, virtually every major wine region in the world has been devastated by the lethal aphid phylloxera — except Argentina and Chile. Geographical isolation created by an ocean running the length of each country on one side and a mountain range along the other may be a factor. Another may be the use of flooding for irrigation. Escape from phylloxera has been a blessing to both countries, not only saving the local vineyards but also drawing European immigrants who brought with them the grapes and winemaking techniques of their homelands. Also, because pesticides are largely unnecessary here, Chile has become a leader in the production of organic wines. The only negative? The low quality grapes Criolla and Pais brought by Spanish missionaries dominated the landscape for another century, since they were never eliminated by the deadly bug.

Label Laws

Unlike France, with its strict AOC regulations governing not only labeling, but also grape growing and winemaking, neither Chile nor Argentina controls domestic viticulture. Like other New World nations, both countries label their wines by variety: in Chile, the wine must be composed of at least 75% of the variety named; in Argentina, the percentage is 80%. Chile further specifies that 75% of the wine must derive from any region specified on the label, and 75% of the grapes must be of the vintage named. Both countries are also considering further defining specific appellations — a notion that will probably remain controversial until the world is better acquainted with the wine regions of each.