South Africa

A Tale of Two Oceans

Wedged between two oceans (the Atlantic and the Indian), South Africa boasts some 1,800 miles of coastline and some of the finest vineyard land in the world. Though smaller than the state of Texas, it offers a wealth of microclimates, with the most important surrounding Cape Town and benefiting from its Mediterranean-like climate.

South Africa’s wine industry got its start over 300 years ago when Dutch colonists imported French varieties, a vast improvement over the native vines. Despite this long history, however, it was not until the 1990s that South African wine began to make its mark on the international scene.

Trade sanctions imposed in response to apartheid were lifted in 1991, yet the South African wine industry is only just beginning to fulfill its promise. One of only eight wine-producing countries in Africa, it ranks eighth in terms of volume and 18th in terms of vineyard acreage. In fact, South Africans themselves are much more inclined to ask for a glass of beer!

Over the past century, the South African wine industry has been controlled by cooperatives, the first and most powerful being the Co-operative Wine Growers’ Association of South Africa (KWV). By stabilizing prices in 1905, the KWV stemmed a financial crisis caused by the Boer War and phylloxera. In later years, however, KWV and about a dozen other cooperatives had such a stranglehold on the industry, they inhibited innovation and stalled productivity. In the mid-1980s, small, independent estates began forming, intent on improving quality. Though cooperatives still account for about 85% of production, these private estates have become a major force in the production of premium wines.

White wines dominate production in South Africa, with Chenin Blanc claiming one-third of vineyard lands. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling are the other leading white-wine grapes. Among red wines, South Africa’s signature wine is Pinotage, a genetic cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut. International varieties such as Merlot, Pinot Noir and Shiraz are gaining ground, however, and South African Cabernet Sauvignons can achieve greatness. South Africa also produces excellent sweet dessert wines, Champagne-style sparkling wines and brandy.

With the best vineyards concentrated near the sea, deserts toward the north define the perimeter of South Africa’s viticultural region. Though new wine regions continue to be established in South Africa, the two best-established are:

• Paarl region. Literally “Pearl” in Afrikaans, the relatively warm Paarl region of South Africa is the location of the headquarters for the KWV. A relatively widespread area, it accounts for about one-fifth of all plantings.
• Robertson region. With about half the vineyard area of the Paarl region, the Robertson region is best known for its white wines, particularly Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Colombard and Muscadels.

Though differing in terroir and style, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa all are historically white-wine producers. In New Zealand alone, three-quarters of vineyard land was planted with white-wine grapes until just a few years ago. Among the popular international white-wine varieties are Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Gris. Today, all three nations are making inroads into the production of excellent red wines, as well. Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are all on the increase, both in volume and in quality.

The “Wild” White: Sauvignon Blanc

From the French word sauvage, meaning “wild,” Sauvignon Blanc probably originated in France’s Bordeaux region; it serves as the basis of Sancerre, Pouilly- Fumé and Fumé Blanc in that country. Today, Sauvignon Blanc is also a popular variety below the equator.

Often blended with Sémillon, especially in Australia, Sauvignon Blanc reaches its apogee in the hands of New Zealand’s winemakers. Though second to Chardonnay here in terms of vineyard acreage, Sauvignon Blanc became New Zealand’s most celebrated wine because of its vibrant flavors, refreshing crispness, excellent balance of acidity and long finish. In addition to the greens with which Sauvignon Blanc is associated — herbs, gooseberries, melons, fresh limes, snow peas, olives and green tea — these New Zealand wines also hint at the tropics, with flavors of exotic fruits like mango and passion fruit. Vinification often resembles that of France’s Sancerre wines, using stainless-steel tanks rather than oak barrels to protect their clarity of flavor.

Other Whites to Watch

In these three white-wine-producing countries, a number of other whites are worthy of mention, including these:

• Chardonnay. Still the world’s favorite white wine, Chardonnay is an important variety in Australia and New Zealand, though it has yet to catch on in South Africa. New Zealand’s cool climate elevates the acid level of the grape, which Kiwi winemakers mitigate through malolactic fermentation (causing a second fermentation by inoculating tanks with bacteria), fermenting the wine sur lie (on the lees, or sediment) and aging in French oak barrels. In Western Australia, the Chardonnays of the Margaret River appellation are among the nation’s best.
• Chenin Blanc. South Africa’s primary white wine grape, called Steen locally, was first imported to the country by a Dutch colonist in 1655. Today, about 25 – 30% of vineyard acreage is devoted to the variety, though many growers here and in New Zealand are replanting with the more internationally ubiquitous Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. South African Chenin Blanc is distinctively crisp, with notes of orange blossom, persimmon and seabreezes; it is also being used to create superior dessert wines.
• Other Varieties. In South Africa, Chenin Blanc is also being replaced with Hanepoot, French Colombard, Thomson Seedless, Palomino and Cape Riesling. Riesling is popular in New Zealand, as well, where it is made into both dry and dessert wines. Western Australia is known for the Verdelho grape, imported to the region from the Portuguese island of Madeira in 1829. Around World War II, the Houghton White Burgundy that was produced here was a national favorite.

The Pride of South Africa: Pinotage

No discussion of South African wine would be complete without touching on the variety that was created here in 1925 by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsaut: Pinotage. Versatile, hardy and reliable, Pinotage offers a good balance of acid and sugar. Full-bodied, slightly sweet and redolent of ripe plums, Pinotage is now being “discovered” outside of South Africa, with recent plantings in New Zealand among other countries.

Other important South African reds include Cinsaut, a light red variety descended from France’s Rhône Valley and often used in blending, and Shiraz, Australia’s favorite red and now gaining popularity across the Indian Ocean. In New Zealand, Pinot Noir is now the leading red-wine grape in plantings.

The New Wave: Cabernet Sauvignon

Arguably the most exciting variety in the Southern Hemisphere today is Cabernet Sauvignon — widely planted in New Zealand for well over a decade and now becoming the leading noble red grape of South Africa. As more and more post-apartheid winemakers observe their colleagues in other lands and experiment with winemaking techniques back home, quality is rising, so that the best examples exhibit complexity, richness and depth. Expect smoky flavors of cherry, plum and coffee, robed in a velvet texture, with an elegant, lingering finish. Cabernet Sauvignon is also often used in Bordeaux style blends here.